Bedding

Que dois-je savoir pour mieux freiner ...

Modérateur : Modérateurs

Répondre
Avatar de l’utilisateur
CS
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 11130
Inscription : lun. déc. 01, 2003 3:26 pm
Localisation : St Hubert
Contact :

Bedding

Message par CS »

Tiré d'un site!
Je trouve pas mal de partager, c'est une question qui arrive souvent!
Bedding is a "real conditions" heat cycle, and the final step that prepares brake pads and rotors for service. Nearly every friction pad material, even OEM passenger car compounds, improve in performance and durability after bedding. Some friction compounds will transfer a layer of friction material onto the rotor faces. This transfer layer is an essential element to the performance and service life of the pads and rotors. New cast iron rotors must be heat cycled and bedded to remove any remaining internal stresses and to condition the rotor faces for service. Pad and rotor bedding cannot be accomplished in a heat oven or cryogenic chamber. For parts to be properly bedded, they must be subjected to the heat, pressure and torque loads they will see in real operating conditions. This can be accomplished in the car or on a special dyno capable of operating at real torque level conditions.
First, slowly build heat into the pads by making slow to medium speed stops. Then make a series of very hard high-speed stops. Some fade may be experienced when doing the high-speed stops. The brakes should not be dragged during this procedure. Let the brakes cool down for twenty minutes or more and they are then ready to race. Never use new pads to bed new rotors. It is best to bed new pads on old rotors that had run the same type of pads. It is best to bed new rotors with old pads that are the type that will be used in the race. A bedded rotor should have a uniform, polished appearance with no cracks or grooves.
Here is the truth about bedding. Some pad compounds can be cured to eliminate the need for any real break in time. This is true with pads that will run in the lower temperature ranges. It is not the case with the higher temperature race compounds. Some pad companies claim that their race compounds are ready for competition right out of the box. They claim that you do not need to spend time with bedding. The fact is, no experienced racer would ever take the green flag and head off into turn one with parts that have not been heat cycled. The performance is just not there yet and the chances for failure are proportionately higher. You may be able to take the family wagon right out of the garage and onto the highway after installing new parts, but do not attempt to race your car on competition pads or cast iron rotors that have not been cycled and bedded. Your are compromising the performance and increasing your chances for early failure or premature wear. Our engineers strongly urge you to take the time for proper bedding. We want you to get the maximum performance, reliability and service life from your pads and rotors.
The principals behind rotor bedding are largely the same as the principals that apply to seasoning new cast iron engine blocks or cylinder heads. One of the leading causes of rotor cracking is thermal shock. Thermal shock is the result of heat, or the rate which the heat is applied or removed. The cracking heard when pouring your favorite beverage over ice is fracturing caused by thermal shock. The same thing can happen to unseasoned cast iron. It is therefore imperative to run the rotors through one or two moderate heat cycles before subjecting them to the extreme heat conditions in competition. In addition to stress relief, the bedding cycle also conditions the rotor faces. This is important with pad materials that work with a friction transfer layer. Even if you are using pads that are already bedded or cured low temperature pads that do not need break in, you must still heat cycle new cast iron rotors before subjecting them to real service conditions.
Rotor bedding is usually done at more moderate temperatures than most pad bedding. Rotor bedding works best with pads that have already been run and are ready for service throughout their entire temperature range. The new rotors should be cleaned prior to installation to remove any oily residues. On the car, the rotors should be gradually cycled to 500 - 700 degrees F., and then allowed to cool. Keep in mind that pyrometer readings taken in the pits do not reflect the actual peak temperatures of the rotors on the track. Temperature paints can be very helpful in identifying the peak temperature. It is also a good idea to bed new rotors with a lower temperature pad compound: this will prevent overheating the rotors in their first cycle. Once the rotors have been subjected to the first head cycle and cooled down, they are ready to run with the higher temperature pads. A second lap session, followed by another complete cool down cycle is the best method of assuring that the bedding process is complete.
For proper bedding, the pads should be gradually cycled up to normal operating temperature and then allowed to completely cool to ambient air temperature. Race compound pads intended for high temperature service will naturally require more heat in their bedding cycle than pads intended for passenger car or lower temperature competition. It is always best to bed new pads on a rotor that has already been bedded or run. Used rotors must not be scored, cracked or grooved from wear when installing and bedding new pads. If you are running new pads and new rotors together for the first time, the first laps should focus on bedding the rotors. Once the new rotors have been bedded and cooled, the next cycle can be used to heat the pads up to their operating range.
Whether you are bedding new pads or rotors, keep these points in mind. Pump the brake pedal with medium pressure at low speed to be sure everything is working properly. Do not drag the pedal to increase the heat up time. Apply the brakes in gradual cycles to make sure the parts are evenly and thoroughly heat saturated. Avoid quick overheating of just the pad and rotor surfaces without taking the time to get good heat build up through the entire body of the part. If your car is equipped with brake cooling ducts, reduce or block the air inlet area. This will minimize the cooling cycle time and maintain more even temperature during the bedding laps. If the pads and rotors are both new, make the first laps with rotor bedding in mind. After the rotors or pads have been heated, run a few laps without touching the brake pedal to begin the cooling process. Use the brakes as little as possible to bring the car back to the pits. Once parked, release the brakes immediately. It also helps to rotate the wheels periodically during the cool down cycle. This will promote even cooling in the rotors by not allowing any one section to retain heat from within the brake pads for any extended time. Avoid any chance for extreme temperature shocks. Avoid driving through any standing water on the way back. If time permits, you can use a low temperature pad to bed new rotors. This method will allow the pads to fade before the new rotors reach a critical temperature. If you take these steps to prepare your parts for competition, your time will be well rewarded with performance and longevity from your part
Soyons positifs - Varex la solution
On n'est jamais mieux servi que par soi-même
VOLK RAYS addicted SPACERLESS
http://www.chocolatdailleurs.ca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Avatar de l’utilisateur
winston180
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 908
Inscription : ven. mars 12, 2010 11:05 am
Localisation : Trois-Rivieres

Re: Bedding

Message par winston180 »

Merci pour l'info!!!!
Winston180

04 STI Platinum Silver Metallic -- THE Summer Ride!!!
05 Legacy 2.5GT Wagon Garnet Red Pearl -- RIP THE Winter Beater!!!
19 WRX SPORT Red -- Dayli and New Winter Beater!!!
BBQMAN
Scooby Specialist
Messages : 169
Inscription : jeu. oct. 14, 2004 3:01 pm
Localisation : Montreal

Re: Bedding

Message par BBQMAN »

There is a lot of OPINION in this write up, some based only on that persons point of view.... for instance,

Some pad companies claim that their race compounds are ready for competition right out of the box.
Real race pads are factory burnished

They claim that you do not need to spend time with bedding.
I agree!!

Chris , it would be interesting to see who the author is and what his background knowledge may be.

There is many false statements in this quote.

The fact is, no experienced racer would ever take the green flag and head off into turn one with parts that have not been heat cycled.

Totally false.
Carl Wener -Perry Performance & Competition 450 662 8886
FACTORY Distributor for- Hawk, Performance Friction, DBA, Gulf Competition, STILO helmets HANS, OMP, Cobra, Schroth, ZAMP, HJC Motorsports, Koni, KW, Bully Clutch, AIMsports, Chatterbox

Stocking dealer for Whiteline, Sparco, K&N, AEM, Autometer etc.
Avatar de l’utilisateur
Wakeforce
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 1654
Inscription : lun. nov. 24, 2008 4:21 pm
Localisation : Mourial

Re: Bedding

Message par Wakeforce »

Will read later!
Avatar de l’utilisateur
2012gt
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 705
Inscription : lun. août 15, 2011 11:01 am
Localisation : Montreal

Re: Bedding

Message par 2012gt »

Sub 'd.... this imo is more of a conversational piece than fact. Like bbq said who wrote this? Source please.
2010 Subaru Legacy 2.5i...Sold
2012 Subaru Legacy GT Black on Black on Carbon Fiber! RIP....
2016 WRX Sportech Black...
Merci Msc.. pour toutes les informations!
Avatar de l’utilisateur
CS
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 11130
Inscription : lun. déc. 01, 2003 3:26 pm
Localisation : St Hubert
Contact :

Re: Bedding

Message par CS »

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/text/Bedding.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Soyons positifs - Varex la solution
On n'est jamais mieux servi que par soi-même
VOLK RAYS addicted SPACERLESS
http://www.chocolatdailleurs.ca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Avatar de l’utilisateur
CS
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 11130
Inscription : lun. déc. 01, 2003 3:26 pm
Localisation : St Hubert
Contact :

Re: Bedding

Message par CS »

http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Brake_Pads" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Soyons positifs - Varex la solution
On n'est jamais mieux servi que par soi-même
VOLK RAYS addicted SPACERLESS
http://www.chocolatdailleurs.ca" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Avatar de l’utilisateur
Wakeforce
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 1654
Inscription : lun. nov. 24, 2008 4:21 pm
Localisation : Mourial

Re: Bedding

Message par Wakeforce »

La seule chose que je trouve étrange dans ce write-up est qu'ils déconseillent de faire le bed-in avec des pads et disques neufs. IMO c'est contre-intuitif de faire le bed-in du rotor neuf avec tes vieux pads usés pour changer pour les pads neufs ensuite.
Avatar de l’utilisateur
jefars
Scooby FREAK
Messages : 8302
Inscription : dim. juil. 04, 2004 7:31 pm
Localisation : Mascouche

Re: Bedding

Message par jefars »

Avec certain de bon pad il vient en general la marche a suivre pour le bed-in !

moi je conseil de suivre les recommendations du fabriquant ;)
impreza 99 wrx sti version3 Type RA = SOLD
Forester 2001 = SOLD, impreza 95 WRX = SOLD, impreza Wagon 04 = SOLD
proJet : [ 22B STi SUBARU IMPREZA ] = SOLD , FR-S = SOLD
Outback 3.0R 2005 = SOLD
Nouveau Projet: ioniq electric 2019
Répondre